Santiago!!!

We are here! SANTIAGO baby!!! Big cities are always more confusing when walking into the old town & this was no different. We have secured our compostella certificates from the pilgrim's office, and after checking a couple of albergues that were already full (1st time that's happened to us), we have our beds for the night & are getting showered up now. I don't think the moment or accomplishment will really hit until we are wine in hand!! :-)

Rounding the Bend - Sept. 25th

We did our last long day today & then weirdly could not find our town! It was a mile past what the book said so we thought we had overshot it, then suddenly there it was. Usually we get crabby when stuff like that happens when it's hot on a long day (4pm), but today we took it in stride & it all worked out fine. Tomorrow night I will be beside myself knowing we are walking in on Sunday. I am very excited!!

We are watching a real Madrid soccer game after dinner in O Pedrouzo & contemplating what it's going to feel like walking into Santiago tomorrow. It's hard to believe the moment is almost here & that it's been nearly a month since we began. Time doesn't seem to have existed. Hope I can sleep tonight; so much anticipation!

Palas de Rei - Spet. 24th

Have arrived in Palas de Rei for the night after 16 miles on a boring path very close to the road most of the day. We prefer the days when we pass thru many small hamlets with lots of animals, but that was not today! Grateful for a cool, misty morning & smooth walking without a lot of elevation. VERY hard to grasp we have 2 more days of walking & on the 3rd day, we will walk into SANTIAGO!! I am always sore in the shoulder blades & collar bone so will be happy to see the Parador Hotel in Santiago! Off to dinner; we are starving tonight.

At this point, we would have 2 days in Santiago (we fly out on 9/29), which is great. We will have time for all the special pilgrim masses & still may take the bus to Finesterre, so this is my best case scenario. We plan to stay at a cool seminar albergue the 1st night, then the awesome Parador Hotel for 9/28--yeah baby!!

Portomarin - Sept. 23rd

Arrived Portomarin for the night after another beautiful walk thru many small towns & farmland. Made 15 miles before a steep descent brought us into town the last mile. Then another steep hill climb to the top of the town where the old church & our municipal albergue are located. Weather is warm again, but we'll take it after that patch of really bad weather! Taking a nap before dinner later--we are tired today & Laurie has new blisters, but her raunchy toes are healing slowly.

We have 3 more walking days & plan to walk into Santiago on Sunday 9/27. So hard to grasp we are this close. Feeling healthy but very tired at this point after a 15 mile day & we still have a couple of those & a 16+ miler before we're done. Cannot imagine what walking into Santiago will feel like; expect it to be very emotional.

Sarria - Sept. 22nd

After 17 gorgeous, woodland miles, we've arrived Sarria for the night. One of the prettiest walks yet; long but thru lots of small towns with plenty of cows, roosters, cats, hens, roosters, goats, dogs etc. We meant to take the shorter (12 mile) route, but missed the turn so ended up on the scenic camino route that look us thru Samos & an ancient, spectacular monestary, so the mistake was somewhat fortuitous. Doing wash, then will visit the old centre before dinner. Buen camino!

Galicia - Sept 21st

It's 5:15 pm local time. We've finished our pilgrim menu & time for your daily update! We made 14 miles today in gorgeous sunny but not too hot Galicia weather & rolled into our final town (Tricastela) around 1:30 pm. Showered, did wash, & now drinking sangria & eating the pilgrim "menu of the day" for early dinner. This is the strange "downtime" part of the day when you shift from working very hard to doing virtually nothing for hours after errands are done, clothes ready for tomorrow & bedtime. Yesterday we watched a Real Madrid soccer game but no tvs on the cafes tonight in this small town. It's an interesting daily routine where entertainment comes from conversation or your own thoughts.

Galicia is gorgeous country & the final region we walk thru. It's known for wind & rain, but also gorgeous hilly country, cattle lands on high plains, wine country (again--Bierzo). We walk thru meadows & forested hamlets that are very quaint. Cows always lowing. My favorite walking so far. Pet some cute burros in a field after dinner while heading back to the municipal albergue. Beautiful night!

Casabela - Sept. 19th

Made 15 miles today from Molinseca to Casabela, where we are at a wonderful municipal albergue attached to a gorgeous old church. Oh, except for the ice cold shower! We are starting a little later in the morning as sunrise has shifted later. Our favorite part of the day is on the road at sunrise & the hours immediately after. After days of bad weather, we are back to sunshine but without the scorching heat. Today's walk, while arduous w/all our aches & pains, was about as perfect as it gets. Doing wash then off to find a pilgrim meal & some of the excellent local red wine. All is supremely well :-).

Today's town & yesterday's (Molibaseca) were really spectacular. Often we come over a hill at the end of the day & it's like a walt disney medieval town & you think "really??" Hontanas & Castrojeriz were like that; you feel so lucky to have seen them. Sometimes they are overnight towns & sometimes just passing thru or a quick stop to eat, but always a welcoming "buen camino!" from the locals as you pass. Sometimes I feel like a conquering hero returning from war! Older locals love that we are sisters walking together.

Bought salad fixings & olive oil at the supermercado & Laurie made us salad dinner in the albergue kitchen, which was perfect. There are cows & horses in the yard & a live album of Elton John playing. The Italians cooking now are trying but mangling the lyrics. Life is good despite all our aches & pains. Santiago is within reach!!