Santiago!!!

We are here! SANTIAGO baby!!! Big cities are always more confusing when walking into the old town & this was no different. We have secured our compostella certificates from the pilgrim's office, and after checking a couple of albergues that were already full (1st time that's happened to us), we have our beds for the night & are getting showered up now. I don't think the moment or accomplishment will really hit until we are wine in hand!! :-)

Rounding the Bend - Sept. 25th

We did our last long day today & then weirdly could not find our town! It was a mile past what the book said so we thought we had overshot it, then suddenly there it was. Usually we get crabby when stuff like that happens when it's hot on a long day (4pm), but today we took it in stride & it all worked out fine. Tomorrow night I will be beside myself knowing we are walking in on Sunday. I am very excited!!

We are watching a real Madrid soccer game after dinner in O Pedrouzo & contemplating what it's going to feel like walking into Santiago tomorrow. It's hard to believe the moment is almost here & that it's been nearly a month since we began. Time doesn't seem to have existed. Hope I can sleep tonight; so much anticipation!

Palas de Rei - Spet. 24th

Have arrived in Palas de Rei for the night after 16 miles on a boring path very close to the road most of the day. We prefer the days when we pass thru many small hamlets with lots of animals, but that was not today! Grateful for a cool, misty morning & smooth walking without a lot of elevation. VERY hard to grasp we have 2 more days of walking & on the 3rd day, we will walk into SANTIAGO!! I am always sore in the shoulder blades & collar bone so will be happy to see the Parador Hotel in Santiago! Off to dinner; we are starving tonight.

At this point, we would have 2 days in Santiago (we fly out on 9/29), which is great. We will have time for all the special pilgrim masses & still may take the bus to Finesterre, so this is my best case scenario. We plan to stay at a cool seminar albergue the 1st night, then the awesome Parador Hotel for 9/28--yeah baby!!

Portomarin - Sept. 23rd

Arrived Portomarin for the night after another beautiful walk thru many small towns & farmland. Made 15 miles before a steep descent brought us into town the last mile. Then another steep hill climb to the top of the town where the old church & our municipal albergue are located. Weather is warm again, but we'll take it after that patch of really bad weather! Taking a nap before dinner later--we are tired today & Laurie has new blisters, but her raunchy toes are healing slowly.

We have 3 more walking days & plan to walk into Santiago on Sunday 9/27. So hard to grasp we are this close. Feeling healthy but very tired at this point after a 15 mile day & we still have a couple of those & a 16+ miler before we're done. Cannot imagine what walking into Santiago will feel like; expect it to be very emotional.

Sarria - Sept. 22nd

After 17 gorgeous, woodland miles, we've arrived Sarria for the night. One of the prettiest walks yet; long but thru lots of small towns with plenty of cows, roosters, cats, hens, roosters, goats, dogs etc. We meant to take the shorter (12 mile) route, but missed the turn so ended up on the scenic camino route that look us thru Samos & an ancient, spectacular monestary, so the mistake was somewhat fortuitous. Doing wash, then will visit the old centre before dinner. Buen camino!

Galicia - Sept 21st

It's 5:15 pm local time. We've finished our pilgrim menu & time for your daily update! We made 14 miles today in gorgeous sunny but not too hot Galicia weather & rolled into our final town (Tricastela) around 1:30 pm. Showered, did wash, & now drinking sangria & eating the pilgrim "menu of the day" for early dinner. This is the strange "downtime" part of the day when you shift from working very hard to doing virtually nothing for hours after errands are done, clothes ready for tomorrow & bedtime. Yesterday we watched a Real Madrid soccer game but no tvs on the cafes tonight in this small town. It's an interesting daily routine where entertainment comes from conversation or your own thoughts.

Galicia is gorgeous country & the final region we walk thru. It's known for wind & rain, but also gorgeous hilly country, cattle lands on high plains, wine country (again--Bierzo). We walk thru meadows & forested hamlets that are very quaint. Cows always lowing. My favorite walking so far. Pet some cute burros in a field after dinner while heading back to the municipal albergue. Beautiful night!

Casabela - Sept. 19th

Made 15 miles today from Molinseca to Casabela, where we are at a wonderful municipal albergue attached to a gorgeous old church. Oh, except for the ice cold shower! We are starting a little later in the morning as sunrise has shifted later. Our favorite part of the day is on the road at sunrise & the hours immediately after. After days of bad weather, we are back to sunshine but without the scorching heat. Today's walk, while arduous w/all our aches & pains, was about as perfect as it gets. Doing wash then off to find a pilgrim meal & some of the excellent local red wine. All is supremely well :-).

Today's town & yesterday's (Molibaseca) were really spectacular. Often we come over a hill at the end of the day & it's like a walt disney medieval town & you think "really??" Hontanas & Castrojeriz were like that; you feel so lucky to have seen them. Sometimes they are overnight towns & sometimes just passing thru or a quick stop to eat, but always a welcoming "buen camino!" from the locals as you pass. Sometimes I feel like a conquering hero returning from war! Older locals love that we are sisters walking together.

Bought salad fixings & olive oil at the supermercado & Laurie made us salad dinner in the albergue kitchen, which was perfect. There are cows & horses in the yard & a live album of Elton John playing. The Italians cooking now are trying but mangling the lyrics. Life is good despite all our aches & pains. Santiago is within reach!!

Molinaseca - Sept. 17

Laurie's toe has stopped throbbing after almost 2 days on the antibiotic, so that is good. We walked 17 miles from Rabanal to Molinaseca past the Cruz de Ferro (where people leave rocks representing their burdens) & the highest altitude of the entire camino. The descent was miles over rock bed, our least favorite walking, but all feet held up & all is well.

Drinking beer now & relaxing before dinner at our albergue.

Leon - Sept. 15

In LEON!! Beautiful city but right in the middle of a rainstorm & forecast is ugly for 2-3 more days. I'm sorry I ever asked for cooler weather when we were burning up in the sun the other day :-( but alas that is all part of the camino.

One of Laurie's big toes is infected, but we got antibiotic today in Leon so have what she needs to contain the damage. And of course I am taking photos of her feet because they are so repulsive.

Carrion de los Condes - Sept. 13th

It is hard walking but so pretty most days.  We get lost in thoughts and talk a lot which passes the time quickly.  The last 4-5 miles in peak day heat are the hardest and nothing makes it go faster.  You think of your shower and in your mind I say "just walk."

We arrived in Carrion de los Condes & staying in a converted monastery albergue.  Plain village but with a gorgeous church. It's Sunday, so going to the pilgrim mass tonight for the group blessing. Those are great moments.  They don't always have masses.  It depends on the town--smaller towns, no. But Sunday always. This will be our 4th (Roncevalles, Estella, Najera, here), and they are some of our favorite times.

And damn it was cold today. All we want is a hot shower at the end! No laundry cause it's raining. The nuns at this monastery sell homemade almond cookies to raise money so I will be buying!

They found the body of the American pilgrim who went missing from the Camino last April, & it is all over the news here. We heard today there are Spanish police walking the Camino undercover to keep things safe. Spanish economy is so bad & the Camino has been a real boost, so they are trying to keep confidence high in safety. The murderer was a farmer & known thief. She was buried on his property & he has confessed.

 

Hontanas - Sept. 11th

Quick update before bed. Long 20 mile walk on the open plain in hot weather out of Burgos to Hontanas in hot weather. These are hard days. But beautiful, preserved medieval town so walking the extra 5 miles was worth it. Municipal albergue where we are staying was a medieval hospital hundreds of years ago. Went to the pilgrim mass in the great Burgos cathedral last night. Incredible. Had a vision of a the palm of a hand covering the Camino symbol. Strange & interesting. Now bed!

Burgos - Sept. 9th

Arrived BURGOS! Big day & a spectacular cathedral! Â Buen camino!

Laurie's feet are better but healing slowly. They never have time completely because of the constant walking. Look up Atapuerca, where we slept last night. They found the oldest evidence of human life in Europe there in 2000, going back one million years. Never thought we'd ever come near a small out-of-the-way town with such historical importance.

Santo Domingo - Sept 8th

A long day in Santo Domingo & left an hour later than usual to rest Laurie's feet as much as possible. So, we started out @ 6:30am to make 14+ miles to Belorado. Seems funny to call that a "short day" with an 18lb pack on your back (with water), but such is the Camino. We agree it is difficult to describe how incredible this experience is.

We have left the vineyards & entered Castillo, which is rolling hills of wheat & looks like the Palouse Empire. We have been walking with Italian Pierro (56, married, from Turin, speaks many languages) & Orlindo (64, divorced, French speaking Portugese living in Belgium) since Zubiri. We make quite a foursome. Pierro is a historian & ensures we see everything significant when we pass thru towns. Very helpful, nice men. We are the UN & call Pierro "Boutros Boutros Gali".

The word "attachment" came on very strong yesterday. It is interesting how you bond quickly with people here, talking for hours as you walk, then the pace falls off & you separate, then maybe see again days later, maybe not. Can be sad, happy or relief.

That's what's so amazing: people from all over the world with different beliefs & religions, all supporting each other in a common goal & communicating across languages. And always a "Â buen camino!" when we enter a town & pass a local or pass another pilgrim while walking. Had a dream the other night that I was following a trail of dimes, then found my first coin that morning. And tons of orbs in the photos.

Logrono - Sept. 5th

Arrived in Logrono--a big milestone as it is the end of the 1st stage & we are on schedule. We did 20 miles yesterday, but only 13 today as tomorrow is another longer day. Meeting wonderful people & laughing a lot. Buen camino!

Estrella - Sept. 3rd

Arrived in Estrella this afternoon & found an albergue that employs & supports the disabled so will stay here tonight, right on the river. Heavy rains again last night after a hot but gorgeous day, so the way was very muddy & slippery, but gorgeous scenery of wine groves & lush farmland. Sunrise was spectacular. I was glad to have my hiking shoes, but Laurie was in her new Tevas bought in Pamplona because her boots hurt her healing blisters. Her feet look better than yesterday, so that is good. So far, we are on schedule even stopping at many churches & sites. Paella for lunch today--yum!:-)

 

It is such an interesting experience. People literally from all over the world & so supportive of each other's efforts. Why can't the whole world be like the camino?

Puenta de la Reina - Sept. 2nd

Arrived in Puenta de la Reina from Pamplona  - 17 miles. Excellent conditions (sunny but much cooler which was good). Laurie's feet had a rough day, but medicine bought in Pamplona starting to work. Beautiful day though & beginning to get in a rhythm. Passed the iron sculptures on the hilltop today, the most iconic piece along the way. Still difficult but making progress each day. ¡Esta bien!  :-)

We've had no problem finding sleeping & eating, & all the food is good because I am constantly hungry! Walking from 6:30 am to maybe 2 or 3 pm with breaks for lunch, water or rest or to see a cathedral. There was a local volunteer tonight at the alburgue dressing foot wounds. Spain is so supportive of the pilgrims, it is really wonderful. You can't imagine how supportive everyone is.

Pamplona - Sept.1st

Laurie's feet are bloody but she was a trooper today. I made her wear my toe socks & they were better. Another big storm last night, but the worst passed in the night. Now we have arrived in Pamplona & secured beds for the night. Showered, doing wash, then will be exploring Pamplona. GORGEOUS city!



Excellent early dinner in Pamplona & have been to the pharmacy to get Laurie's feet fixed. She bought new Keen sandals to wear to try something different. Another hard day tomorrow with steep terrain, but all is well. Scenery very beautiful!

Zubiri - Aug. 30th

Camino is more difficult than expected. I am sore but fine, and Laurie is blistered & already starting to lose a toenail. Crazy. Arrived in Zubiri & have had thunder & lightning for the 2nd day in a row, luckily after done walking for the day. Very intense. You become grateful very quickly for the little things like a hot shower & plenty of drinking water.

Beginning The Camino - Aug. 29th

Arrived in St Jean Pied de Port & secured a room for the night. Drinking some beers before checking in at the pilgrim's office tonight, then sleep finally! And so it begins tomorrow over the Pyrenees! :-)